These Villains are the Cause of Skin Damage, Part 3

If we want to look at our anti-aging practices from an informed and discerning perspective, it’s good to know what’s going on in there that causes wrinkles (and other not-so-fun manifestations of skin aging). So far, we know about three main things that happen in the skin when damage is caused. Click HERE for the 1st Villain I wrote about, Click HERE for the 2nd in the series. Read on for the 3rd biochemical phenomenon in my series:

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Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs)

AGE is a a conveniently-coincidental acronym for Advanced Glycation End-products, which are the evil little products of a reaction between glucose (sugar) and proteins… Specifically collagen and elastin in this case (glycation).

Yes, it tastes good, but excess sugar in your diet screws up more than just your waistline.

How does it cause aging? 

Glucose is good, of course, in the way of providing energy. But when there’s extra glucose, it rumbles with our collagen and elastin. This process produces AGEs, which make these fibers crispy and easily breakable. This reaction contributes to inflammation, slowed/inhibited growth of cells, and wrinkles (oh my!).

To simplify, think of it as turning your normal, elastic rubber band-like fibers into an old, dried out and crumbly rubber band. When AGE’s wreak havoc, your rubber bands are in an accelerated aging state, causing that loss of elasticity, sagging, and wrinkles.

You know all those old, crumbly rubber bands in the back of your desk drawer? That’s your elastin after AGE’s. Yikes!

In an article for Prevention, dermatologist Dr Frederic Brandt (well-known for his research in AGE’s) breaks it down further: “Besides damaging collagen, a high-sugar diet also affects what type of collagen you have—another factor in how resistant skin is to wrinkling… The most abundant collagens in the skin are types I, II, and III, with type III being the most stable and longest lasting. Glycation transforms type III collagen into type I, which is more fragile.

The article goes on to describe that “AGEs deactivate your body’s natural antioxidant enzymes, leaving you more vulnerable to sun damage—still the main cause of skin aging.”

(Read even more about it from a dermatologic perspective in this white paper.) 

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yikes! What Now?

1) It’s time to build some new Collagen. If you’re not already, start using a Retinol or Retinoid.

My favorites for sensitive or dry types:

RX Renova (super-gentle Tretinoin .02)

Or this SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex

My favorites for resistant or oily skin types:

Rx Tretinoin .05 or Tretinoin .1 creams

or SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex 1.0

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2) Diet:

Cut down on simple sugars in your diet. From a dietary perspective, refined sugar seems to impact glycation about 10 times more than glucose.

Yup, just another reason… Sorry.

Judgmental cat seems judgmental, but he really just has your best interests in mind.

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3) Use topical antioxidants.

These guys are ONCE AGAIN a great way to cut down on all the domino effects of damage. . Click HERE to read more about them. 

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4) Try a Targeted Treatment Cream: One of my fave go-to’s is Skinceuticals AGE Interrupter. Give it a Go if you’re in the market for a rich, cosmetically-elegant treatment cream.

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And Until Next time, Stay Fabulous My Friends!

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Vitamin C: it’s not just for breakfast… Products that Prevent

The best product-related helpers to prevent damage to the skin are arguably antioxidants and sunscreens, which both help prevent the formation of free radicals in the first place, and also help neutralize these offenders.

Picture a knight in shining armor, swinging a sword at an evil free radical, he’d be considered the antioxidant.

How can we ever thank you, Antioxidant?!

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My go-to, long-standing favorite antioxidants are topical Vitamin C’s.

 Topical vitamin C’s are known to have many benefits, including:

•  Neutralizing free radicals, preventing skin aging
•  Helping to maintain normal cellular turnover
•  Helping to build collagen
•  Lightening and brightening the skin
•  Reducing inflammation
•  Decreasing transepidermal water loss (your skin won’t leak moisture so much)

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Here are just a few I love:

• Skinmedica C & E Complex This creamy, silky formulation has a satin-like consistency… Just like those makeup primers we all love. I tend to like it because of its cosmetic elegance and the lipid-soluble Vitamin C feature. Also, if you are as clumsy as I can be, the pump is very helpful. No spills! Read more about this one in my post, 3 Fast Facts: Skinmedica C and E Complex

• Skinceuticals CE Ferulic This L-ascorbic classic has been often imitated, never duplicated! Read More about it in my post, 3 Fast Facts: Skinceuticals CE Ferulic

• Skinmedica TNS Essential Serum My clients know that I refer to this one as ‘the Mercedes Benz of anti-aging products’. Because, not only is there C, but lots of other potent goodies, too. Namely, growth factors, antioxidants, peptides, and alpha arbutin. Read more about it in my post, 3 Fast Facts: SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum

• Obagi C-clarifying Serum This little powerhouse is the first and the only of its kind on the market. It’s really under-rated, in my opinion. Read more about it in my post, 3 Fast Facts: Obagi C-Clarifying Serum

• Obagi Professional-C Serums

• Environ C-Quence Eye

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The Need-To-Know:

How to Use Vitamin C: Use Vitamin C in the mornings after toner and before moisturizers and sunscreens to help defend skin from the onslaught of pollutants, sun, and all kinds of other threats that you’ll meet out there during your busy day.

Think: I’m drinking my OJ in the morning, My skin needs its Vitamin C in the morning, too!

Mom always said: Drink Your OJ! … but don’t forget your morning topical C!

Oh, and don’t forget the neck, chest, and the backs of the hands… they need protection, too.

Buyer Beware: Even though Vitamin C is a sort of ‘knight in shining armor’, it’s also really unstable… always about to oxidize and die. Be sure that you don’t go with just ANY vitamin C. Those that have published research or from reputable companies are the best bet.

Oxidation: If you’ve got a water-based C (L-ascorbic) like CE Ferulic, for example, be sure you toss it when it starts to turn orange/amber in color.  This assures that your product isn’t weakened or *GASP* causing oxidation. This is an ANTI-OXIDANT, for goodness sake.

Acne Patients Beware: Vitamin C’s are great for many people, but acne patients should avoid: even though Vitamin C’s are great to lighten acne marks from old breakouts, they are not the best choice for those currently breaking out. If you currently have active acne, get your breakouts under control first, and then consider choosing a formula meant for all or oily skin types.

Stay safe in the sun out there – and Until Next Time, Stay Fabulous My Friends!

3 Fast Facts: Skinceuticals CE Ferulic

I started 3 fast facts because I could go on forever about some of these products… which can make writing about them a little daunting.  Instead of overthinking (and therefore procrastinating), I’ll just use this category to finally touch on some of my favorite products & three reasons you might love them too! 

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Three Fast Facts About: Skinceuticals CE Ferulic

Dr. Pinnell’s baby: Skinceuticals CE Ferulic

➢ Fact 1

This fantastic product is a topical antioxidant used to protect the skin from future damage, promote cell renewal, and increase the build of collagen. Distinguished Duke professor, faculty-member, chemist, and Dermatologist, Dr Sheldon Pinnell published more than 200 articles and studies on topical antioxidants.

Known (by me, at least!) as the grandfather of topical antioxidants, Dr Pinnell developed this product based on much of his research. This serum has gone on to become and remain the cornerstone of Skinceuticals collection. Dr Pinnell had formulated the perfect C Serum: the right PH, the right percentage of C, and the perfect C-stabilizers: Vitamin E and Ferulic acid.

This emollient-like serum can be perfect for normal-to-dry skin types. Side note: Most reviews on the product describe it as ‘featherweight’, but I find that most oily- types find it too heavy, likely because of the Vitamin E.

➢ Fact 2

I love this formulation in particular because of its reservoir effect: once it is in the skin, it stays there for about 3 days- which makes it great for sweating runners and outdoor-lovers. This also says to me: “It really gets in there!”

(Keep things consistent and apply every day though).

➢ Fact 3

It also reduces inflammation in UV-irradiated cells. Slather this on afterwards if you happen to get a sunburn on vacay in Barbados. (But I know you won’t get a sunburn, right?!)

Here’s a link to learn more about it (the science!)

 

Until Next time, Stay Fabulous, My Friends!

Product Review: Skinceuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense SPF 50

Word on the Street/Company Claims:

“This groundbreaking, weightless, 100% physical sunscreen provides water-resistant broad spectrum protection with transparent titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (Z-Cote®*). Enhanced with artemia salina, a plankton extract, this lightweight sunscreen increases skin defenses and resistance to UV and heat stress.

Color-infused technology enhances natural skin tone and boosts daily radiance.”

Starts off as a lightweight liquid… dries to a satiny powder finish. Consider your world rocked.

Appropriate for who?:

Normal, Combination,  Oily, Sensitive… pretty much everyone!

NOT so good for:

For the darkest Fitzpatrick skin types, I suppose the powder-finish would be less ideal, as it could look a bit light/dry-ish. This being said, it is still better than almost any other physical-only formulation I’ve used on dark skin.

Those who desire a dewey, super-hydrated finish may not prefer the mattefying quality of this product.

Totally Fabuliz: (Favorite part):

Copy-Cats have tried with similar consistencies and claims, but product is unique and fabulous because of it’s PHYSICAL-ONLY, chemical-sunscreen-FREE  formulation. This means more broad-spectrum protection with less irritation- this is normally only achieved with HEAVY, white creams!

Just OK:

I wish the larger, limited-edition 4.2 fl oz size could be available all year round!!

Size DOES matter… pictured here is the limited edition mega-size, next to the regular 1.7 fl oz

Needs work:

The smaller, ‘regular’ 1.7 fl oz has a screw-on top. I’d love to see the flip top from the limited edition size make it’s way to this always-available version.

Star Rating:

4 STARS!!!★★★★

★1 Star: Might pass this one up

★★2 Stars: Okay for the money

★★★3 Stars: Really nice product, I’d buy it

★★★★4 Stars: Pretty much deserves a Nobel Peace Prize, want it/need it/ have to have it!

Misc Notes/Other need-to-know’s:

-Shake it before you use it, so it mixes up thoroughly.

-I’m obsessed with this very-slightly tinted formulation because takes the “white” out of a titanium/zinc sunscreen. This product may also be the only sunscreen that men will readily use, because of the clean/non-goopy finish. It leaves a silky, natural and texture afterward, and almost feels like a favorite makeup primer.

Bottom Line:

No, it doesn’t smell like coconuts, and it won’t make your eyes sting either- all of our usual sunscreen-skipping excuses are flattened. Well done, Skinceuticals!

Practice Safe Sun, kids!
And don’t forget to re-apply!!